Claire's Highland Fling 8th Leg - Blair Athol to Home

 Monday 30th June

    We returned to Ardnamurchan and the site at Kentra Bay.  This is the site we really loved.  No-one else around, peace, quiet and looking over the estuary.

    The journey was a little boring.  We'd already driven on most of these roads although in the opposite direction and of course, it was raining so you couldn't see much.  There were some moody mountains partially covered in mist but little else of note.  We shared the driving and stopped midway for lunch.

    The tide was out when we arrived.  I wonder whether we'll see an otter again this time but probably not today as we can hardly see out of the windows because of the rain.

Tuesday 1st July

    We've been travelling for the whole of June and some extra days.  Six weeks today!  We've realised that we've only got 11 days left before we're home.  Neither of us want to get home - which is a good sign.... and we only have 1 more 'new' stop in Scotland before returning to Balloch for the 150th Luss Highland Gathering.

    We awoke to sunshine, so I set off on the bike determined to reach the Singing Sands and I did!  I can't believe how close I was to them the last time.  Lovely sandy beach but no singing.  Apparently, it's either the wind or the silica content of the sand that causes the squeaking.  Squeaking Sands doesn't have the same ring to it.


Down on the beach, I had to go for a paddle.

    Back to Daisy and after a cuppa and some biscuits, I went for another ride, this time to Castle Tioram.  It was a lovely quiet ride along the River Spiel which was beautiful.

    I encountered a few cars on the way back but not many.  Again, a lovely ride but very hilly - up & down.  19.7 miles today.  Knackered!

    During the evening, the tide was coming in.  It was exactly like this the first time that we stayed here about a month ago.  We settled down watching the wildlife and we saw the otter again!  Lolloping across the exposed sandy promontory.  Beautiful!  but too quick to get a photo though.

    Mike saw it again swimming - he said that it had 3 humps just like Nessie with the 3rd hump being pointed.

    What a lovely end to an exhausting but wonderful day.

Wednesday 2nd


    Scotland is truly a majestic and magical place and so peaceful.  A slow start to the day as we didn't have far to travel.  I took a short walk over the grassy area around the foreshore.  The sheep roam freely over here and what huge sheep shit there was!

    Our destination today is the 'Inn at Ardgour' where we can park for the night for free in return for eating or drinking there.

    On our way there, we stop for a cuppa at the Bay of Flies.  No-one really knows why it's so named but there were certainly loads of hoverflies and the dreaded midges.  It was lovely though overlooking Loch Sunart.


    We parked up at the pub and watching the Corran Ferry loading the vehicles.  We saw many different one ranging from fully loaded artic timber lorries to a blue light ambulance that went straight to the front of the queue.




    The food in the pub was lovely and not your normal pub grub.  I had smoked salmon and oatcakes to start, Mike had onion bhajis and we both had the venison casserole for main.  Lovely.

    This the last stop for us in the Highlands.  Sad thought, so I had a wee dram of 18 year old Glenfiddich malt whisky and toasted Dad as it was his favourite tipple.

    The sunset reflection (we were facing east) was beautiful and so was the near sun rise at  3.50am.


Thursday 3rd

    We decided to forego breakfast and stop for lunch so we caught the Corran Ferry for the short crossing Loch Linnhie at it's narrowest point.  It couldn't have been much longer that 8 minutes crossing.

    Our route took us through Glen Coe.  It was awful!  So many tourist coaches, cars, people.  Not my favourite place at all.

    We stopped for lunch at the Drovers Arms at Inverarnan at the top of Loch Lomond. 



Another encounter with a Golden Eagle

     The last time that we were there must be at least 40 years ago!  At that time, there was a suit of armour in the entrance hall and Amy thought that it was a robot.  It had been relegated to a cupboard and I caught a glimpse of it and it looked very tarnished.  In it's place in the entrance was a bear wearing a kilt.  I was pleased to see that the barman was wearing a kilt as was the one from 40 years ago.


Mike said that he'd have liked to have felt stuffed after lunch but he didn't enjoy his

    Back at Balloch, we parked up in the pitch that we stayed in the last time.  I'm glad that we did as it is a bit more private than some of the other ones.

Friday 4th

    We had wondered what to do today with thoughts of possibly going into Glasgow on the train - but then what?  Its raining again and didn't want to be walking the streets in the wet.  So, instead, I went to visit Hill House in Helensburgh.  We never got to see it when we lived there in Helensburgh.  Rennie Mackintosh along with his wife Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, designed and decorated the house.  It is truly unique.  



    Unfortunately, it was built with rough cement which is now crumbling and letting water into the interior.  In order to protect the building and the art work, it has been covered completely.  There is a walk way around the building and you can also walk up over the roof!  It is rather high up there.  The cover is to be on for another 7 years then Scottish Heritage need to decide on how best to conserve and repair the building.

     After this, we drove up to see our old houses when we were in the Navy.  One had been completely removed! but the other was still there albeit without the garages.  I believe they have mostly been sold off now.  

Saturday 5th

    Luss Highland Games.  The rain had abated a little so we cycled from Balloch to Luss, a round trip of about 16 miles.  Not bad for us!  However, the outward journey was interesting.  

    We had forgotten to charge the batteries for the bikes so we turned them off when we could to conserve the energy.  There was one section of the cycle trail that took us through a wooded section that had many twists and turns and also some rather steep sections.   

    One such section, I tried to get up under my own steam to stood up and gave it what for - then I felt the bike almost come off the pathway!  I quickly sat down and of course all the momentum had disappeared so I slowly fell off - my wellington boots slipped on the wet leaves and I just went falling onto my back with my head facing down the hill.  I couldn't move!  Not from being hurt, but from exhaustion and laughter!  Poor Mike.  He was so concerned and couldn't get off is bike quickly so ended up laying it down to come to my aid.  It was a funny moment but I did hurt my hand a little bit so steering and braking from then on was a little tricky.

    We eventually got to the Luss games field and stowed our bikes.  Am I glad I wore my wellies!  The ground was like a quagmire!  The games were good, if a little wet.  We saw the tossing of the caber, tossing the sheaf and the warm up for the shot put, all with men in kilts.  It was good to see the traditions continuing.  Of course, there was also Scottish Country dancing, which unfortunately finished just as we arrived, and bagpipe playing and competition.  We were glad that we made the effort and it was so well attended despite the weather, but then I expect the locals are used to it.

A successful tossing of the caber


Sunday 6th

    We met up with a friend of Mike's along with his dog.  It was so good seeing him again after 32 years.  It was just like we'd never been away, it was so easy to talk with him.  He took us for lunch at a pub around the east side of Loch Lomand at Balmaha then later carried onto the road end at Rowardennan.  It was a shame that it was raining otherwise it would have been nice to walk.

    Once he had taken us back and had a cuppa, I took myself off for a walk around Balloch Country Park.  We used to take our dog for a walk there when we lived up here.  It has changed a bit though as most of the path ways are now tarmacked. 


    I found the castle (I'm not sure I've seen it before) and the walled garden (again, I don't think I'd found that before either).  It was quite a walk for the evening at 3.5 miles.

    This is our last night in Scotland!  We are both feeling somewhat sad.

Monday 7th

    Sunny today - of course it is, we're heading back!  We took Daisy over to Garelochhead to see our house when we lived there.  There were road works at the entrance and up and around the bend making the approach interesting, however we made it.  Our house was still there and it hadn't changed much at all.  We did spy a full size trampoline in the back garden but how they got it in there and how they use it is anyone's guess as the garden was tiny!  The view from this house was amazing and I still miss that, especially during the winter when the hills are covered in snow.

    We breakfasted in Helensburgh at the same cafĂ© we went to before but it wasn't quite as good.  Never go back they say.

    The drive around Glasgow on the M8 was busy.  We certainly feel like we are getting back to 'speed, people, cars & stuff' that we'd left behind for a few glorious weeks.

    Our stop for the night is just over the border at Metal Bridge Inn - and not a metal bridge in sight.  Apparently there used to be, hence the name.  A no frills site although it does have the usual services, and a no frills pub and no frills food - but it was Ok for the night.

That's Scotland & Gretna over there!

Tuesday 8th

     Travelling further south and onto Carnforth.  We had to drive through the centre of Penrith which is lovely but finding signs for the A6 was very difficult.  When we eventually found it, there was a sign saying that it was closed at Shap so we had to find our way back to the M6.  

    We stayed at Cotestones Farm near Warton, Carnforth and is very peaceful.  I went for a walk along the cycle track but was very boring because I couldn't see over the high hedges.

Wednesday 9th

    Our destination today is Brigholme Farm in Settle.  We had wanted to stay here 2 nights but they didn't have the room.  On the way there, we passed the Devil's Bridge at Kirby Lonsdale.  I remember stopping here when me and Mike were driving from Helensburgh to Halifax.  It is a lovely setting - just a shame that I didn't have my camera ready.

    Once sorted out at the campsite, we walked into Settle along the River Ribble.  

Giggling in Giggleswick

    Settle is a lovely small town and they have a real sense of community and were currently having a charity project where they made characters from plastic plant pots.  Fantastic!




The W.I. make considerably bigger buns



    It was a lovely day and we enjoyed our walk but were knackered when we got back.  Just a few hours later and we had to walk to the pub for dinner but that wasn't so far.  On the way, we passed a Plague Stone. 

 Apparently during 1592-93, vinegar was put into the hollow in the stone and coins were put into it as a means of disinfection allowing commerce to continue even though the disease was around.


We could see Daisy from the road.

Thursday 10th

    A long journey today - 160 miles to Walsgrove Farm, Egdon just south east of Worcester,  There is a definite change to the fields, while as in Scotland all the fields were green, down here, they are really pale as they are suffering from the heatwave that they've been having while we have been away.... and boy, is it hot today!  We don't know what to do with ourselves, we're just not used to it.  We've got the canopy open for the 1st time this trip to try and deflect some heat away.

    Our site is on a fruit farm and we're allowed to pick any dropped fruits.  So we collected enough plums to make a crumble, at some point.  Not tonight as it's too hot but we're having a curry for dinner.  When we took it out of the freezer this morning, the weather wasn't half as hot.

Mike's in the shade somewhere there!

Friday 11th

    Another travel day, this time to Savernake Forest near Marlborough.  We know that friends Carol & John are staying there so we thought that we'd surprise them and spend our last night with them.  We arrived and spied what we thought was their caravan but weren't sure.  We saw John in the shade and   Carol had gone shopping.  she came back and we wondered how long it would be before she saw us.  It must have been about 10 minutes, John had managed to keep quiet about it.   Carol had got food for a BBQ and enough for all of us - she must have had a premonition.

    We ate outside - the first time that we had done that in the whole of our trip!  Mike & I sat out until about 11pm when it started cooling down

Saturday 12th

    Home!  I must admit that at this time and with this heat, we are glad to be back home.




54 days in total

2,671 miles driven

27.6 average mpg 

31.3 average mph

    



Claire's Highland Fling 7th Leg - Tongue to Blair Athol

 Monday 23rd June

    Leaving Tongue west along  the NC500, we were getting buffetted quite a lot as we were very exposed to the elements on top of the hills.  The only saving grace was that we didn't have to go far - only 20 miles to Corraidh Croft.

    As we couldn't get on the site until 2 o'clock, we decided to go up to Smoo Cave and I'd have a walk down to have a look.  Mike chickened out saying he'll get the kettle ready for my return.  It was a steep climb down .... and back up but it was worth it.  I got drenched when I went to see the waterfall in the cave.


 The source of the cave's waterfall  

Entrance to the cave



    We then started walking up the road to see Sango Sands but the wind was too much so we turned back.  looking at pictures of Sango Sands, I think those at Seilebost on Harris were better.  At the village hall, there was a Himalayan Craft Market and the prayer flags were flying at their best in the roaring wind.

    Got to Corraidh Croft just after 2pm and they were just closing the tearoom so hopefully we can try it tomorrrow.  It really is windy still, we were kept awake with it last night so a little snoozette was in order during the afternoon.  Hopefully, it will die down soon.

Tuesday 24th

    The wind died down during the night so we had a lie-in.  By the time we got up, it was mid-morning so we went up to the tearoom for breakfast.  Trouble was that they didn't have anything breakfasty so we plumped for coffee and paninis.  Some lovely items in the craft shop but I think that most of them were semi-mass produced and certainly not local crafters.

    After brunch, we took a walk to the postbox.  We had to keep stopping for traffic as it is still a single track road and not many slowing down.  After, I changed in to my wellies and took a walk down to the foreshore through a wooded area.  There were a few midges but as we'd put on some repellent, I wasn't bothered by them.

    A bit of rain in the afternoon so we stayed in and read or did crafting.  I finished the 'repair' on my embroidered dress.  Now I need the weather to wear it!  


Midges are rife now that the wind has died down and Deet doesn't taste very nice!

    We also worked out where we are going for the next week.  This will include a stay at Blair Castle (campsite)  Apparently, the Murray Clan to which I have a very long ago & tenuous connection, owned it.  We also decided to return to Kentra in Ardnamurchan. 

Wednesday 25th

        Our drive to our next site is along the top of Scotland then down the west side a short way.  On the way, we had to cross the bridge at Kylesku.  We'd both seen photos of it but I think that Mike didn't realise how high it was and he didn't have the distraction of driving to take his mind of it.  He's doesn't have a head for heights.



    To get to our next site, I had to drive down a single and narrow track off the NC500 road  and met a few vans & motorhomes coming in the opposite direction.  A little hairy but I think that I coped admirably.  Not sure what Mike thought - man of few words or maybe he was on the edge of his seat! (you did fine)

    The site at Achmelvich is fairly largish and you can park anywhere.  There aren't many completely flat places to pitch so I forwent the provided electric point and parked up right next to the edge of a natural harbour.  Wind isn't forecast so we should be ok at high tide.


    It was a lovely day with little wind so I decided to go for a swim from the deliciously sandy beach.  It was colder than at Ullapool but the wetsuit keeps the worst off.  I had a lovely swim.  There were small jellyfish in the water so tried to keep clear of them.

    It was a lovely evening albeit a little chilly but we sat out with a drink, chatting and enjoying the time.

Thursday 26th

    Slept late and then took a walk up and across the rocky, grassy area next to the site.  Sheep graze and was quite evident.   There's also the remains of an old croft with pen area and possibly storage area.  Not much of it left though.  It must have been quite a hostile  existence.  


    Much windier today and it was exhausting however we took advantage of the wind and hung out two washloads.

    I took myself off for another walk but in the other direction and saw a very secluded beach with no-one on it but couldn't see anyway to get down to it.  On the way back, I went down to Achmelvich Beach.  I know Clachtoll beach is a thing to be done on the NC500 but I prefer this one and it's a lot quieter.  People swimming, paddle-boarding and just enjoying the beach.  I couldn't resist taking my shoes off and having a wee paddle. 

    In the evening, we decided to partake in the on-site chippy.  I had haddock & chips and Mike had battered haggis & chips and pancake rolls.  All lovely cooked and tasty.


Friday 27th

     Set off early just after nine to try and beat any oncoming traffic down the narrow single track road.  Yesterday, three rental motorhomes arrived together and they'd caused mayhem!  The district nurse was stuck behind them and to compound it all - they'd arrived at the wrong campsite.  Idiots!  

    Back on the main road heading for the East of Scotland, we stopped in a layby just down from Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt for freshly made bacon butties.  It's quite handy having a motorhome!

    Today's drive is east across Scotland to Brahan Estate near Dingwall.  We stopped in Dingwall for a quick shop and tried to get some crocs.  Mike's are on their last legs as the inner sole starts sliding around when they get wet which is quite often.  Didn't find any that were big enough though.


 At the site, we pitched up between two mighty oak trees overlooking a field of wheat.

   After a cuppa, I took myself off for a walk through the woods, around a lake, accidently disturbed a family of swans and also saw a standing stone with some Gaelic and English translation on it. 

"After the Day of the Stag will come the Day of the Bear"

    It's so peaceful here.  No-one around but later in the day there were a number of cars going up and down the lane just behind us.  Maybe estate workers going to and from work?  Apparently, there are some red squirrels in these woods but I didn't see any.

Saturday 28th

    On our way to Blair Athol, we decided to come off the very boring dual carriagway that is the A9 and take a detour through Carrbridge.  On our way in, we saw a town sign saying that it is home to the famous Golden Spurtle Competition which allows porridge makers from all over to compete for the title of ‘World Porridge Champion’.  Well, you'd never have guessed that such a small village had those accolades. 

    The site at Blair Athol is huge!  We both wondered why we'd come.  We eventually found a water point and the our pitch which was the most slopiest one on our travels.  We couldn't get level, front to back.  We really have to go 'up' to bed!

    It was a lovely day so I went for a walk whilst Mike did some reading.  He's quite happy staying around the van.  Sorry, Daisy.  My walk took me up a track alongside the site which leads into an area which has the Squirrel Path.  I walked around enjoying the quiet and looking up into the trees.  It was a lovely walk but I didn't see any squirrels.  I then decided to follow a path alongside the River Tilt.  The river is lovely, very peaty with the sun shining on it in just the right way.  


    Beautiful!............ and then I saw a red squirrel!  Not up in the canopy but running through the trees.  How wonderful!


    Continuing on my walk along the river feeling elated, the path petered out as the bridge over the ravine was broken.  I was about to turn back and would have been quite a way, then I looked at it again.  I could climb the fence, walk around the ravine then climb back over the other fence.  There was no-one around so that's what I did.  Just like getting across a stile.

Sunday 29th

    I visited Blair Castle, Mike didn't fancy it so stayed back to do some Daisy maintenance, reading and washing.  I bought the entrance ticket a few days ago, not realising that I could have 50% off by staying on the site.  Still, never mind.

    The castle is impressive and well maintained.  There's also someone living there - the 10th Duke's half sister and her family.

    I wanted to visit this castle as I have ancestor ties to the Murray Clan, who once owned and still do own it.


    I took many pictures and purchased a guide book so I've got a load of reading to do.  Every hour, on the hour, a piper played in front of the castle.  Wonderful.  The first pipes that I've heard this trip!


    It was a lovely sunny day so I walked back through the Hercules Garden then out along the path through the squrrel wood back to Daisy.  All in all, a 4 mile trek.  I really needed a sit down!

    I got my book and a drink and sat outside.  I thought that my knees were burning but it turned out that it was my shoulders.  One full day of sun and I get burnt - I spent most of it inside the castle!

    As I'd finished my embroidered dress, I wore that today as I'm rather pleased with it.