Claire's Highland Fling 7th Leg - Tongue to Blair Athol

 Monday 23rd June

    Leaving Tongue west along  the NC500, we were getting buffetted quite a lot as we were very exposed to the elements on top of the hills.  The only saving grace was that we didn't have to go far - only 20 miles to Corraidh Croft.

    As we couldn't get on the site until 2 o'clock, we decided to go up to Smoo Cave and I'd have a walk down to have a look.  Mike chickened out saying he'll get the kettle ready for my return.  It was a steep climb down .... and back up but it was worth it.  I got drenched when I went to see the waterfall in the cave.

 The source of the cave's waterfall  

Entrance to the cave

    We then started walking up the road to see Sango Sands but the wind was too much so we turned back.  looking at pictures of Sango Sands, I think those at Seilebost on Harris were better.  At the village hall, there was a Himalayan Craft Market and the prayer flags were flying at their best in the roaring wind.

    Got to Corraidh Croft just after 2pm and they were just closing the tearoom so hopefully we can try it tomorrrow.  It really is windy still, we were kept awake with it last night so a little snoozette was in order during the afternoon.  Hopefully, it will die down soon.

Tuesday 24th

    The wind died down during the night so we had a lie-in.  By the time we got up, it was mid-morning so we went up to the tearoom for breakfast.  Trouble was that they didn't have anything breakfasty so we plumped for coffee and paninis.  Some lovely items in the craft shop but I think that most of them were semi-mass produced and certainly not local crafters.

    After brunch, we took a walk to the postbox.  We had to keep stopping for traffic as it is still a single track road and not many slowing down.  After, I changed in to my wellies and took a walk down to the foreshore through a wooded area.  There were a few midges but as we'd put on some repellent, I wasn't bothered by them.

    A bit of rain in the afternoon so we stayed in and read or did crafting.  I finished the 'repair' on my embroidered dress.  Now I need the weather to wear it!  

Midges are rife now that the wind has died down and Deet doesn't taste very nice!

    We also worked out where we are going for the next week.  This will include a stay at Blair Castle (campsite)  Apparently, the Murray Clan to which I have a very long ago & tenuous connection, owned it.  We also decided to return to Kentra in Ardnamurchan. 

Wednesday 25th

        Our drive to our next site is along the top of Scotland then down the west side a short way.  On the way, we had to cross the bridge at Kylesku.  We'd both seen photos of it but I think that Mike didn't realise how high it was and he didn't have the distraction of driving to take his mind of it.  He's doesn't have a head for heights.

    To get to our next site, I had to drive down a single and narrow track off the NC500 road  and met a few vans & motorhomes coming in the opposite direction.  A little hairy but I think that I coped admirably.  Not sure what Mike thought - man of few words or maybe he was on the edge of his seat! (you did fine)

    The site at Achmelvich is fairly largish and you can park anywhere.  There aren't many completely flat places to pitch so I forwent the provided electric point and parked up right next to the edge of a natural harbour.  Wind isn't forecast so we should be ok at high tide.

    It was a lovely day with little wind so I decided to go for a swim from the deliciously sandy beach.  It was colder than at Ullapool but the wetsuit keeps the worst off.  I had a lovely swim.  There were small jellyfish in the water so tried to keep clear of them.

    It was a lovely evening albeit a little chilly but we sat out with a drink, chatting and enjoying the time.

Thursday 26th

    Slept late and then took a walk up and across the rocky, grassy area next to the site.  Sheep graze and was quite evident.   There's also the remains of an old croft with pen area and possibly storage area.  Not much of it left though.  It must have been quite a hostile  existence.  

    Much windier today and it was exhausting however we took advantage of the wind and hung out two washloads.

    I took myself off for another walk but in the other direction and saw a very secluded beach with no-one on it but couldn't see anyway to get down to it.  On the way back, I went down to Achmelvich Beach.  I know Clachtoll beach is a thing to be done on the NC500 but I prefer this one and it's a lot quieter.  People swimming, paddle-boarding and just enjoying the beach.  I couldn't resist taking my shoes off and having a wee paddle. 

    In the evening, we decided to partake in the on-site chippy.  I had haddock & chips and Mike had battered haggis & chips and pancake rolls.  All lovely cooked and tasty.

Friday 27th

     Set off early just after nine to try and beat any oncoming traffic down the narrow single track road.  Yesterday, three rental motorhomes arrived together and they'd caused mayhem!  The district nurse was stuck behind them and to compound it all - they'd arrived at the wrong campsite.  Idiots!  

    Back on the main road heading for the East of Scotland, we stopped in a layby just down from Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt for freshly made bacon butties.  It's quite handy having a motorhome!

    Today's drive is east across Scotland to Brahan Estate near Dingwall.  We stopped in Dingwall for a quick shop and tried to get some crocs.  Mike's are on their last legs as the inner sole starts sliding around when they get wet which is quite often.  Didn't find any that were big enough though.

 At the site, we pitched up between two mighty oak trees overlooking a field of wheat.

   After a cuppa, I took myself off for a walk through the woods, around a lake, accidently disturbed a family of swans and also saw a standing stone with some Gaelic and English translation on it. 

"After the Day of the Stag will come the Day of the Bear"

    It's so peaceful here.  No-one around but later in the day there were a number of cars going up and down the lane just behind us.  Maybe estate workers going to and from work?  Apparently, there are some red squirrels in these woods but I didn't see any.

Saturday 28th

    On our way to Blair Athol, we decided to come off the very boring dual carriagway that is the A9 and take a detour through Carrbridge.  On our way in, we saw a town sign saying that it is home to the famous Golden Spurtle Competition which allows porridge makers from all over to compete for the title of ‘World Porridge Champion’.  Well, you'd never have guessed that such a small village had those accolades. 

    The site at Blair Athol is huge!  We bith wondered why we'd come.  We eventually found a water point and the our pitch which was the most slopiest one on our travels.  We couldn't get level, front to back.  We really have to go 'up' to bed!

    It was a lovely day so I went for a walk whilst Mike did some reading.  He's quite happy staying around the van.  Sorry, Daisy.  My walk took me up a track alongside the site which leads into an area which has the Squirrel Path.  I walked around enjoying the quiet and looking up into the trees.  It was a lovely walk but I didn't see any squirrels.  I then decided to follow a path alongside the River Tilt.  The river is lovely, very peaty with the sun shining on it in just the right way.  

    Beautiful!............ and then I saw a red squirrel!  Not up in the canopy but running through the trees.  How wonderful!

    Continuing on my walk along the river feeling elated, the path petered out as the bridge over the ravine was broken.  I was about to turn back and would have been quite a way, then I looked at it again.  I could climb the fence, walk around the ravine then climb back over the other fence.  There was no-one around so that's what I did.  Just like getting across a stile.

Sunday 29th

    I visited Blair Castle, Mike didn't fancy it so stayed back to do some Daisy maintenance, reading and washing.  I bought the entrance ticket a few days ago, not realising that I could have 50% off by staying on the site.  Still, never mind.

    The castle is impressive and well maintained.  There's also someone living there - the 10th Duke's half sister and her family.

    I wanted to visit this castle as I have ancestor ties to the Murray Clan, who once owned and still do own it.

    I took many pictures and purchased a guide book so I've got a load of reading to do.  Every hour, on the hour, a piper played in front of the castle.  Wonderful.  The first pipes that I've heard this trip!

    It was a lovely sunny day so I walked back through the Hercules Garden then out along the path through the squrrel wood back to Daisy.  All in all, a 4 mile trek.  I really needed a sit down!

    I got my book and a drink and sat outside.  I thought that my knees were burning but it turned out that it was my shoulders.  One full day of sun and I get burnt - I spent most of it inside the castle!

    As I'd finished my embroidered dress, I wore that today as I'm rather pleased with it.

Claire's Highland Fling 6th Leg - Orkney and on to the Kyle of Tongue

Tuesday 17th June

    We had an earlyish start for an early ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, Orkney.  The ferry this time was huge!  It even had cabins on board but for only a short sailing I’m not sure why.  (B&B onboard for early morning sailings)

    I continued my vigil for whales but didn't see any.  We passed the island of Hoy and the rock formation called Old Man of Hoy.  The rocks here have amazing geology.  There was also a long waterfall off the top of the cliffs into the sea.

    We couldn't get onto the site early so we stopped off at Maes Howe, an ancient cairn.  Mike reversed into the only space left in the car park and as we got out of Daisy, a lady came over and congratulated Mike on his reversing.  He does do that well but having cameras everywhere, it also helps.

    We managed to get onto a tour.  We should have booked a time slot so we were very lucky to get this as we only had to wait 15 minutes.  A short coach journey took us up to Maes Howe, a short walk and then a bent-down scramble through the cairns entrance corridor.  That was interesting for our old bones!  The cairn is over 4,000 years old but they don't know what it was used for.  No bodies were ever found and none of the locking stones had been put in place.  The Vikings found it when they invaded and left rune marks in the rock.  Apparently on 21st December, the setting sun shines directly through the corridor and hits the back wall of the cairn so some skilled engineering was used for its construction.  Unfortunately we weren't able to take any photos inside the cairn.

    We continued around the island to the Italian Chapel.

    Italian POW's built it during the war from 2 nissen huts and some plasterboard for their worship.  Some of them were skilled artists too as the inside was amazing.  It was almost as though it was 3D.

    We continued down to see the Churchill Barriers.  These were barriers that were made during the war as commanded by Churchill.  Ships and boats were scuppered at certain points to prevent German U Boats getting past.  

    By this time, we were able to get onto the site so we headed to Kirkwall.  En route, I saw a strange wall around a field and when we got closer noticed it was made out of old rubber tyres.  Certainly a use for them.  We set up and chilled.  It felt like we'd done quite a bit that day.

Wednesday 18th

    We were going to have  rest day but then the sun came out!  It was very windy and we walked around the 'Peedie Sea' (a boating lake)  Peedie in Gaelic means small.  It was so windy there were waves on it!  There was a liner anchored in the bay and hoards of tourists were coming ashore.  There were so many people in the town.  Kirkwall has many independent shops but most of them were gift shops.  I did buy a beautifully hand knitted cardigan from the local craft fayre though - Knitted by Shirley.  I also visited St Magnus Cathedral, which is rather impressive.  Very old funeral stones from 1600 and, I think, older than that.  There was a display of the Kirkwall Sails.  These were fabric depictions of various adventures during St Rognvald's Crusade to the Holy Lands in 1151.

Thursday 19th

    Sunny again!   We took Daisy for a spin around the island.  Once past the stones Ring of Brodga and Skara Brae, we were virtually the only vehicle on the road apart from the odd farmer in a tractor or local out and about.  The land is very open and spacious, probably due to the lack of trees.

    I've bought some embroidery with me - for the ‘restful’ times.  I had finished this piece before but when I washed it some dye had run from the poppies I'd put in place.  I hadn't checked the material for colour fastness before using it.  Doh!  So after unpicking it I then wondered what to do with it.  On asking members on a FaceBook page, they gave me several suggestions and out of them came the idea of embroidering chrysanthemums.  I must say they do look rather impressive but are taking a long time.  Still it will keep me occupied.

    It was also Sophia's 13th birthday today, so we called via video link to sing Happy Birthday to her.  It was good to see familiar faces again.

Friday 20th

    A short drive to the ferry to leave Orkney.  While they were loading the ferry, we noticed that they were taking ages and were late for the departure time.  Then we realised that some vehicles had to reverse on. Mike then offered to do it.

    Once under way, we tried a bit of whale watching but no luck. Once we were docked back on the mainland, we decided to have a look at John o'Groats seeing as we were really close.  

    A quick look then u-turned back out to carry on to our pitch at Scarsferry for the night.  It transpired that we were staying in someone's garden!  Not bad for £12 a night.  You can get charged that just for disposing of your waste on the NC500!  

Mike thought about straightening this photo up but it would have made the lampost looking like it was going to topple over!

    Later on, I decided to take my bike out for a ride and see if I could see a harbour that I'd seen on my walking app.  Philip's Harbour - reopened in 1979 by Jimmy Page of Led Zep fame.

A curious seal's popping his head out - not many visitors down here

Saturday 21st

    We decided to stop at Thurso to get a few provisions before carrying on our journey west.  There's also a hadware shop in town that just about does everything apart from storm proof clothes pegs.

    Back on our journey to Tongueand we were starting to get really buffetted by the wind.  It seems that the suns has now left us and returned to England as they're basking in the 30's!

Mike had been watching this loch for ages trying to catch sight of wildlife but it dries out at low tide and there's hardly any depth of water

    The calm before the storm - torrential rain and thunderstorms kept us awake most of the night.

Sunday 22nd

    We'd booked in here for 2 days so we could catch up on the laundry and it was really hard keeping the clothes on the lines due to the wind.  

Claire's Highland Fling 5th Leg - Ullapool to Thurso

Thursday 12 June

    A cloudy day but no wind or rain - yay!  However, it was muggy which made everything you do exhausting.  Still, not complaining as we were in shirt sleeves!

    We made our way from Siabost to Stornaway to catch the ferry to Ullapool.  We were early for the ferry so I spent some time walking around Stornaway.  There are lots of independent shops here and there is some history.  There is a small memorial plaque for the loss of 201 souls from the HMY Iolaire in 1919, mostly either Royal Navy, Marines or Merchant seamen. There is also a statue remembering the herring girls. There is also a bit of art work around the town too. 

    The ferry this time was huge!.  After we had a bite to eat, we went up on deck - and we saw a whale!  We think it was a Minkie Whale but can't be sure.  That is my Big 6 complete now - red deer, dolphin, seal, golden eagle, otter and now a whale.

    Our site at Ullapool wasn't far from the centre of Ullpool but around the point at Ardmair.  This was the first site Mike booked way back in January so was able to request a pitch looking out over the water.  It was lovely.  Unfortunately, while we were there the Air Ambulance had to land on the beach to attend to someone.  Whilst it was something to talk about for us, probably not so for the poor soul who needed it.

    The wind was quite warm and the sun was still shining so I decided to don my wetsuit and get in the water.  It didn't really feel that cold and I did swim a short way but only as the current was taking me out of my depth, which I didn't really like.  Wow!  The whole experience was so exhilarating!  I want to do it again - but the conditions need to be right!

    The sunset here was beautiful!  We were facing the right way to see it - and this was at 10pm!  Up here, the night time doesn't really get dark so no star gazing.  Apparently, people saw the Arora Borealis in Wiltshire while us up in Scotland didn't see a thing! 

Friday 13th

    We travelled across country from west to east coast.  The journey across was quite unexciting with plenty of land that either had pine trees or heather.  Not many houses either.

    The site we were on for the next few days was at Brora at an old secret radio monitoring station that was used in WW2 and the Cold War.

    Again, we were looking out to sea and when the tide was about half way the cormorants sat on the rocks with their wings spread out drying them.  At times there were quite a few there. 

   The sun was out so we did some laundry.  there was a washing line there so we were able to hang it out to dry. And then the rain clouds came over! So we took it all in - luckily some of it had dried.  Then the sun came out again so we put some out again!  I've never attended to laundry so closely ever before.

    In the evening, we donned some different clothes - I actually wore a dress!  It was so good wearing something different.  

    We walked into Brora had a drink at the pub and went for an Indian at Sid's Spice.  It was absolutely delicious!  Brora has a small harbour which we walked around on our slow amble back after feeling so full.

Saturday 14th

    We strolled into Brora and did some shopping then went for a coffee.  The hot chocolate that I ordered came in a fantastic mug!  I asked where it had come from, the owner didn't know as it was a gift.  During the afternoon, I walked along the beach then doubled back through the cow field back around to the site.  During this walk I saw and heard a bird and made a recording of it.  Later Mike was able to identify it as a Meadow Pipit.  Something I'd never seen before.

Sunday 15th

    More traveling this time from Brora to Thurso, the most northerly town on mainland UK.  Some of this route was along the NC500.  We haven't done much of this well know route so far, wanting to keep to the more untravelled locations. Angus Cows!  We saw some on this trip.  Up until now we've only seen a few on Mull.  I was expecting to see lots but that is not the case.

    The land flattens out between Wick and Thurso.  There is also a single train track.  Apparently there is a train from Inverness to Thurso that goes through Brora.  I can see that train trip would be a good thing to do but on enquiring the train didn't leave Brora until 20:16.  Maybe next time.

    The site at Thurso is again looking out to sea on a cliff but within walking distance of the centre.  Quite a nice walk along the cliff and you can get down to the beach which is sandy and stoney and seems to be a dog walkers paradise. 

Monday 16th

    Mike did some laundry as I went into town to get some pegs.  A windy day so it's good drying weather.  I also went for a walk around the coast path to Thurso Castle.  This is very run down and dilapidated but there were still people living in a few houses connected to it.

    Back at the site after the 5 mile walk and I was knackered.  After a rest we went out for the evening.  We started off by getting a drink at a local hostelry.  When we walked in the men already there, started laughing.  We found out they were laughing because one man thought I was his wife come to get him.  He offered, and bought, our drinks as a apology.       We then went to a restaurant called Bydand.  If offered a set meal with an amuse-bouche (beetroot meringue with cream cheese and pureed carrot on top), starter (I had vegetable risotto and Mike had belly pork) then a palette cleanser (elderflower sorbet - gorgeous) and a main (I had Scottish salmon fried, with spiced chick peas and carrot and Mike had Pulled Beef with rosti potatoes and mashed cauliflower and green beans).  It was all very nice and just the right amount.

    After that, we went back to the pub and the original men were still there. I joned them in a game of killer pool where you get 3 lives plus if you hit a glass placed in the middle of the table you put in £1 (I think the winner gets that).  Mike got a fiver out of his pocket in preparation!  However, I didn't win but neither did I hit the glass.  It was a good night.