2026 France Autumn Trip, 4th Leg Les Eyzies to Home

 Tuesday 29th September

    We got ourselves organised relatively early as we have a ticket booked for Lascaux caves for 11.10 and have to get there.  We got there in good time which was good really as the parking for motorhomes was a good 5 minute walk away from the actual entrance. We had a tour in English so we could get the most out of the visit but the tickets were quite expensive.  

The Lascaux entrance building is new, Lascaux 4, and really out of keeping with the prehistoric caves.

    We were given headphones and a receiver which allowed the guide to talk so that everyone could hear properly.  The tour started down a corridor then a room, to acclimatise to the darkened cave.  Once in the cave, which had been replicated using 3d technology, we saw the cave paintings.

    These are impressive but you can’t quite get rid of the feeling they are replicas and not the real thing.  Still, the real thing is being preserved so it must be a good thing.  To me, the cave surface looked like rough sandy concrete, presumably made to replicate the actual cave. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos in the cave.  We were told that some of the art would be replicated again in the ‘workshop’ where we could take photos and glean more information. We blindly took this as fact and although I would have liked to take some photos of the art in situ refrained from doing so.  

    However, when we got to the ‘workshop’ there were partial impressions of the cave parts with the artwork that were subjected to a film show, along with more aural information, however, the film made it very difficult to obtain the pictures you wanted and with the cave cut outs meant your picture had an edge to them.  Not very real at all.  We had a better experience when we went to Lascaux around 40 years ago.  Such a shame.

    Mike thinks that they don't allow photos being taken on the tour is because it would slow the tours down and so not have as many.  Maximising profit!

    After our visit we walked into Montignac.  Again we had been here before and recognised parts of it.  It will be good to compare our photos from that time with those we are taking now.

    We always seems to walk around towns during the extended lunch break when nothing is open.  We even tried to buy an ice cream but that was closed too!

    Our site for the night was a short journey back on ourselves to Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère.  The journey took us through small villages, many of which had the old wash house structures still in evidence.  We had a look around Saint-Léon.  So old and impressive.  Again, we recognised the church from a visit around 30 years ago.  

    We went out in the evening to the only restaurant open called La Maison de la Poste.  It's been running as a restaurant since 1948.  

I took this photo yesterday, not realising that we would be coming here the next day!

    I had a Pastis from the region while we waited and it was so good!  I wish that I’d asked what it was but unfortunately didn’t, so I can’t look out for the bottle.  The food was all delicious.  We both had Confit du Canard as it has been their signature dish since opening all those years ago.  The staff were so attentive too, they couldn’t do enough for you.  We were also given a small plate to share with our first drinks and a digestive after too.

    I cannot fault the place which was very busy.  I’m glad we had booked as people were coming along who hadn’t booked and had to sit inside.  Back at the site and there are only 3 vans stopping the night.  It is so quiet!

Wednesday 30th

 

   On the road again and we went through Montignac again, this time it was bustling!  Of course all the shops were open and there was a bit of a market too.  Typical.

    Enroute we saw a van parked in the middle of the road.  We didn't really know what to do .  It was workmen painting the lines on the road.  One of them gestured for us to move by along the road, which we did so slowly.  If that had been UK, there would have been traffic lights and a build-up of traffic.... and on-one working!  We also pass many fields of small trees covered to protect them but laden with fruit.  We can only think they are apples but some of them as small.  Looking over the valleys when we are high up it is amazing to see just how far the tree line extends for.  The UK just hasn’t the space to see such views.  One question we asked ourselves whilst moving along; was why do people build their homes where they do right in the middle of nowhere.  And again, when we travel through the villages and towns during lunch they are deserted!  Not a soul in sight.

    We eventually get to La Rochefoucauld and our stop for the night.  On the way there, the satnav was taking us all over the place.  Mike glanced over at the map and mistakenly pointed to Rochechouart.  So we stopped at the InterMarche there.  Then saw that the SatNav said that it was still another 45 minutes.....and it was.  

    When we got there, I went to investigate and visit the Chateau. I had to cross a bridge to get to it and looked into the river but it was just a dry river bed.  It was supposed to be the river Tardoire.

     The Chateau looked quite impressive on the hill.  It was 12€ to get in.  There was a very impressive spiral staircase made in stone leading down to the kitchens and knights room and finally the dungeon and up to the bedrooms, whilst the entry level housed the reception rooms.  

    There was also a model photoshoot going on (initially I thought it was a wedding and they were getting some unusual photos).  They did get in the way a little but I managed to get to see the rooms they were in, apart from the kitchen where one model was sprawled across the kitchen table!  Well I can say I have ‘done’ a Chateau’.  It wasn’t very impressive but then I expect I can’t expect much for 12€.

Thursday 1st October

    We have been away for the whole of September!  It is difficult to recall some of the things and places we went to at the beginning of our journey.  That said, we are heading back up towards the ferry port now and it is the right time to do so.  The main thing that has spoilt this trip are the midges and bites.  But the rain has come now so they may be a thing of the past.  Fingers crossed.

    Onwards up the road again, this time to Chaillac.  We are at the Camping Car Park just outside the village near a large lake that has a swimming (etang) area complete with slide and diving buoys.

    However, Mike had previously seen that there has been blue green algae in the lake so swimming is not advised.  We didn't see any birds swimming either but we did watch an Osprey swooping and hunting for fish so presumably they are not affected.  

    There are fish in the lake as we saw a few jumps and subsequent water ripples.  It is a very quiet place.  We are the only motorhome in the camping car park although there is one in the car park just outside.  The walk around the lake was quite long but we took a slow bimble.  There is another lake at the other end of the lake and we saw signs for a carp fishing competition but are unsure whether that will actually take place due to the blue green algae.  The place felt a little neglected.  There were gym style points such as parallel bars and ladders but they were falling apart and some were over grown.  So glad we saw the Osprey though.  And the sunset in the evening was brilliant too!

 

Friday 2nd

It was cold last night and in the morning too but the sun was shining right on us (the righteous?) and the lake still looked lovely.

    Off we set again heading further north.  This time to a place called Vatan, not far from the A20 that we had been travelling on almost all the way (a very boring journey today apart from a strange tower that had a smaller, yet windowed top). 

    The Camping Car park is quite large but it is divided into smaller sections so looks OK.  It has a shower block and its own petanque court. And there is a very good information shed too.  

After a cuppa and relax from the tedious journey, we decided to take a look at the Musée du Cirque, a collection (the only one I think) of memorabilia, pictures, posters and films from the circus from 1800’s.  

    Although there were also pictures and indications that animals were used in the acts it was a fascinating exhibition including performing polar bears!  So many models and costumes and posters.... and all for 5€ and we were given a poster to take away with us!  

I would recommend a visit.  

    Before we went back to Daisy, we stopped for a beer in the only Tabac in town.  It seemed like a happening place as there were many young people and more people coming and going as it was also the collection point for packages (Amazon/Temu/Vinted?).

    After such a cold start, the sun has come out!  We have also learnt that where we have been in the south of France, they are now having floods so we had a lucky escape from that.

 Saturday 3rd

    ...... And we are still being plagued by flies but this time, it is the large variety.  You think you've got rid of them all to settle down at night, then lo and behold, there are 2 flying around in the morning.  Either they have very good hideouts or they can get in somewhere.  It is for this reason that we are not sitting out at night.  To be honest, I think we have both had enough now and simply want to get home.  Yes, I know, I shouldn't be thinking like that but….

    So, on again to our next overnight stop, this time to a place near Orleans called Jargeau, again next to the Loire although we can’t see it this time due to the trees.  Quite an open site but there is a little shade (do we need shade now - probably not) and although it looks level it isn’t and we almost run from the bathroom to the table (no, it’s not that bad really).

     After a cuppa and a relax we cycle across the bridge and the Loire to the town to have a look around.  There is not much to look at but there is a science festival for the kids set up in the market place.  We head to the local supermarket, this time Auchan, and buy a few items - then have to play at puzzles to fit it all into the panniers on the bikes.  We succeeded but only just.  The only picture we've taken today is at the supermarket!

    Mike reckons we're in the wrong business, 20€ for a tin of snails and their shells!  I've been lobbing our snails with shells into the park.  

Feel free to ask for some.   PYO.  Voluntary contributions to charity. 😂

More flies.

Sunday 4th

    Onwards and upwards , north that is, this time to Saint-Rémy-sur-Avre, the Avre being a river which is surprisingly full.  

    Enroute there are some very, very straight roads (that are limited to 50mph [80kph] that go on for miles and miles with very, very flat land either side so you can see for miles and miles. Zzzzzzzz.  We skirted around Chartres and we could see the cathedral in the distance.  It looked as though there were 2 spires.  

We have travelled the entire distance across (upwards) through the Centre-Val de Loire department starting just outside and stopping on the border.  The campsite is relatively new having only been opened in June this year so everything is looking really smart and pristine.  We did manage to get a level spot but some people had their units on ramps.  At 13.45 there are only 3 motorhomes/campers, all of which are Brits!  We’ve not had that before.  

    We took the bikes into the town Nonancourt which looks like it was an old fortified town alongside La Madeline-de-Nonancourt.  

    I tried to identify a few buildings from a map in the town but was unable to.  Not much there and of course nothing open, probably being Sunday.  

    More flies and shield beetles at this site too.  The hot summer must have been good for their breeding!

Monday 5th

    Another location this time to Bernay.  We have seen many towns and villages taking part in Breast Cancer October with decorated roundabouts and streets.

    Once on site a Bernay, I took myself off for a walk through the woods and back again.  Little did I know that it would be down, down hill, then up, uphill still it was about time I did some exercise.  This trip I haven’t done any mat exercises as I would normally, I just haven’t felt I’ve wanted to put my mat down on some of the ground.  I must make amends once we are home. 

    In the evening, we went out for a meal . Bernay town itself is down, down so we knew what to expect on our return journey.  The meal was OK but only OK, nothing to write home about but it was good to go out for our final evening. There are some really old buildings in the town and we were sat in the restaurant Chez Gaston which had scaffolding around it.  One side of the building had artwork on it including some writing, l’dmnatue which mean disease. Very strange.

 

Tuesday 6th

    Travel to the ferry terminal at Ouistreham.  On our way we travelled through many villages that had old buildings.  They were lovely to see and also a different looking church.  We arrived really early so carried on along the road and stopped at Luc sur Mer and had a spot of lunch.  On our journey to the ferry terminal, we saw the Le Goeland restaurant we saw on our first night in France.

    Once back at the ferry terminal we saw many cars that had been decorated in wild designs but that all had Bangers4Ben on them.  Ben is a charity that helps people in either physical or mental health difficulties. Some really good ideas.  We had to wait for quite some time before being allowed to board and we thought that the ferry would be late setting off but it still set off on time.

Thunderbird 4 based on Reliant Robin

    We were very surprised to get off the ferry at 21.30 and get through customs by 21.45 and on the road.  It was quite natural to be driving on the left.  However, not long down the M27, the traffic cones had all the cars filtering into the inside lane and eventually onto the M3.  The west bound M27 carriageway was completely closed!  There were no signs indicating such a closure so it was a little surprising.  We followed the M3 but yet again we were guided off the motorway onto roads south of Winchester.  We didn't know where we were. And it was pitch black.  Eventually we managed to get the satnav to guide us back although it was taking us back to the M3!  Eventually, we got to the large roundabout at Junction 9 that we were heading for anyway and managed to pick up the A34 and towards home.  What a drive and end to our trip!

     We have seen some sights on this trip from dolphins on our outward journey, to an Osprey, to beautiful villages, to the eery sounds of zoo animals at night but have also been plagued by midges (they were definitely not mosquitos as we didn’t hear one high pitched buzz they make) and later on by larger flies.  We’ve seen sunshine, mostly, and a little rain but we never got wet ourselves.  I think I’ve worn every piece of clothing that I brought with me apart from the jumpers.  We had an amazing time at the Fleurette/Florium rally and have learnt some French but we still can’t really hold a conversation, but at least we tried.  The Camping Car Parks are fine and some are better than others and their services are also very different but on the whole clean(ish).  I did like the one that was attached to the campsite and I made use of the pool.  That was really nice after a hot day.  No more French trips now until next year when we meet up for the rally at Bayeux.

2026 France Autumn Trip, 3rd Leg L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue to Les Eyzies

 Monday 21st

    Time to move again, this time to a place called Remoulins.  As it wasn't far, Mike had planned that we take a scenic route and had shown it to me on the map.  Well, with the French road signs vastly lacking in road numbers and the locations that were going to several pages away on the map, we never did see the scenic route and by the time we had gone down our umpteenth narrow road we'd had enough and headed for the toll road.  I'm a good map reader and navigator but when the road numbers (when you see them) don't correspond with the numbers in the map and when they do they change just a tiny amount down the road, there is no hope.  I really felt a failure at navigating.  But, I’m not sure anyone else could have done better (yes, when it comes to navigating my head is quite big).

Chateauneuf du Pape

    When we arrived at the site, we had a well earned cuppa then headed out on our bikes down the road to the Pont du Gard, the well known and recognised  Roman aqueduct.  It was lovely and just the tonic to dispel our stress that had built up.  I actually dipped my toes in the Gardon river flowing under the bridge.

    Back to the town and the Poste to buy a stamp and post our other postcards, buy some Cinq Cinq mosquito repellent then relax in a bar drinking beer blonde and eating an olive puff pastry thing which was rather lovely.

    We thought there weren’t any flies here (it has been quite windy) but there is!  So we battened down the hatches and decided to watch a film.

Tuesday 22nd

    Onwards again, this time towards the Med.  We thought that as we are down this way it would be unthinkable not to dip our toes in the Med.  Mike had found a really good site just a few minutes walk away from a beach called Portiragnes Plage.  When we first got here, there was a French motorhome waiting along the road side and the man came to us and spoke in French.  We gleaned that the barrier wasn’t working and no-one was going in or out.  We pulled in and yes the barrier didn’t work for us.  Mike got out and looked at the machine which said there was an interruption to the internet so the machine wasn’t working.  Mike then phoned the contact number and spoke to the lady on the other end,   it doesn’t look as though they knew about the problem.  Anyway, the lady let us have a code so that we could get in.  Mike then told the French bloke to phone the same number. As we were going into the site an English bloke came over and asked Mike how we got in as no-one had been able to get out all day!  Later on, we saw a small works van with a man at the machine fixing it.

    After setting up, I donned my swim suit and we set off to look at the beach.  It was sunny and sandy and the water was lovely!  It was quite shallow so I had to duck down to get covered and swimming was a bit of an issue as I hit my feet on the bottom but I can say I have swam in the Med this year.  We walked along the beach collecting shells (I think I’ll make a stained glass piece with the shells and call it Med Memories or something like that) and taking in the view of the Pyrenees in the distance. 

     Walking back, we saw a jellyfish at the edge of the water wafting with the waves.  Mike mentioned that he thinks that it was a Portuguese Man-O-War (without its long tentacles).  I’m glad I had a dip before seeing that!

    There is a bar/restaurant on the beach which we know to be closing at 5pm (I don’t know what times they keep over here).  As we had decided to go for a beer we then decided to get something to eat there too.  And it was lovely!  We both had grilled Chicken and chips.  The chips were cut so they curled up along the long edge and the chicken was cut into pieces (skin removed thank goodness) and rolled in breadcrumbs then fried.  They were presented on skewers alongside a chilli dip and lettuce with dressing.  It all went down rather well with our beer.  

    In the evening, because we’d eaten early, we were wondering what to do and as the flies were out (and they are big buggers) we closed the doors and watched a film.  Of course there were a 2 inside which we tried to catch (kill) before we went to bed but they are too fast for us.  I felt I had to keep covered up during the night, thus didn’t have a particularly good nights sleep.  In the morning we discovered 4 flies!

Wednesday 23rd

    It's my brothers birthday so Happy Birthday, Paul!  Yesterday, we had decided to hire sunbeds and make a lazy day lying in the sun and swimming but the morning was cloudy.  We were wondering what to do when all of a sudden the sky was bright blue and not a cloud in sight!  Back to plan A.  The sunbeds are 15 € each for the day, which is kind of expensive but we decided to do it anyway.  We had a very lazy relaxing day on the beach.  I was going to go in for a swim but as I was wading out I spotted a blue jellyfish and decided not to take a full plunge.  Maybe I’m a wuss but I didn’t want to chance it.  We had a few drinks there but no food.  I bet they wondered what we were doing for food but we hadn’t taken any with us so will be hungry by dinner time.

It can't get much better!

    When we returned to Daisy, I felt like a little walk so took myself over the road to walk part way around the lagoon.  Unfortunately it smelt a bit, probably due to the low water but I did see sheep grazing nearby, a heron, indications of fish near the edge and actually saw fish jumping out of the water.  I took a different path back and walked through wild fennel growing alongside the path.  Now for a shower and some dinner!

Thursday 24th

    On our way again but before that we had to get rid of grey and black waste.  We were going to top up with water but it looked like people had been using the water tap to wash out their toilet cassettes.  It has been the worst services we have encountered.

    On the road and we past several instances of charred trees that had obviously been among the recent fires due to the hot temperatures.  You could still smell the wood smoke.

Carcassonne in the distance

    During the trip, we could also see the Pyrenees in the distance.  Passing Narbonne I had to try to take a photo of the cathedral as it looked rather impressive, even from the toll road.  We stopped at St-Antonin-Noble-Val, an old mediaeval town.  It was absolutely beautiful and had a lovely atmosphere.  We had a drink in the square then I went for a bit more of a look see. 

    I came across an old bull/cow holder (Ox shoeing stock).  I also saw a dried opened out pig's head on a gate.  That was rather gross.

    Once back at the site, we had dinner then sat out until 9.30 as there were no midges, well none that we could feel.  The following morning I found a few new bites - and they itch like mad!  The camping car-park is next to a few petanque courts and I watched a few people playing.  I still can’t understand the rules or scoring.

 Friday 25th

    Onwards again, this time not so far but the road we took was all twists and turns and up and down so took longer than we had anticipated.  The road looks nothing like it actually was on the map.  The campsite is just outside La Roque-Gageac, another very picturesque place that is very touristy, the main pull being the trek up the 140 steps to the Fort de la Roque-Gageac, a section of cliff that has been worn away and used as a fort and storage place in times gone by.  It was quite interesting and the views from there were amazing but I was expecting a little more.  

    While I was doing that Mike was doing the washing - well trying to.  He had to download an app then it was in arabic.  When he went to the reception (it was in the campsite next door) they said there was a black screen that you have to tap to give instructions about the wash.  It wasn’t very obvious at all but eventually he managed to get it going and had set the dryer going  just before I got back.  It had taken him that long.

    When it had finished, we both went to the bar at the next door site for a beer.  There was also a swimming pool that we could use so I took advantage of that on a hot day.  Mike couldn’t because he didn’t have any budgie smugglers which are a must when using a public pool in France.  My dip was so lovely and I had a refreshing shower when I got back to Daisy.  It has been a very full on day and very hot too.  I may have had too much sun so I won’t be late into bed.

Saturday 26th

    Travel to Les Eyzies. I love the houses along D57.  Many are in an ochre coloured stone. Some really old, some new but keeping with the old look. Château de Beynac on the hill top.

    Some old houses have a round tower to them but they are definitely not a chateau. Not tall just slightly higher than roof. Gives them an authenticity for the area. Again quite hilly as you can imagine given the roque homes.  We wanted to stop at a supermarket but there was a height restriction.  Luckily we saw it in time so managed to miss it. Luckily we found another close by. Mike has been doing all the horrible jobs such as emptying the toilet and grey waste, filling up with diesel. I am doing a bit like filling the water and cleaning inside now and then but I don’t feel like I’m doing my fair share of the ‘dirty’ tasks. 

    We get to Les Eyzies and are welcomed with some stunning cliff faces with buildings within them. 

     The village looks lovely and the Camping Car-Park is not far from it.  We arrive earlier than most people so we have the pick of the spots.  We park up near to the river and have lovely views when we sit out.  

    It was cloudy when we arrived but after lunch, a very uninspired croque monsieur from the supermarket, we walked into the village to look around and visit the tourist info place.  There was a walk up the cliff a little way but with what I did yesterday, I decided to keep to road level.

    There are a few places we would like to visit in the area but one, Grotte de Font-de-Gaume, (the main one we wanted to get to) didn’t have any available tickets.  It only allows a small group of people in at a time due to the original cave paintings and there aren’t any tickets left until we are about the reach Blighty.  Such a shame.  So, we decide to visit La Roque St-Christophe and Lascaux, both of which we have seen before but we want to see some cave paintings whilst here.  The Lascaux paintings are a replica of the originals so more people can see them.  We had to get tickets for both sights with a tour taking us around.  

    BBQ for dinner and sit out (midges allowing) during the evening.  We did sit out until it was really dark but even then it was only 8.45 but then we are an hour ahead over here. Mike thought he had read somewhere that the clocks in France go back 1 hour night so we were looking forward to an hours lie in.  

 Sunday 27th

    When I woke up at 8.30, Mike was already awake and told me the clocks hadn’t gone back.  we hadn’t got any plans so we took our time getting up.  I decided to go to the local boulangerie for fresh bread.  It happened to be a patisserie but they did have some croissants and a baguette so I got them and we had our breakfast outside.  The local baker was very surprised at me only wanting 1 baguette!

        Whilst I was doing a little bit of washing, Mike got our bikes ready for a cycle ride.  It was a lovely ride along the river Vezere.  

    We saw so many things from chateaus on hill sides to really thick bamboo growing at the side of the path to a walnut grove.  We also heard the dogs across the river in the forest that were in a hunt. We went along the cycle trail to a village called Bugue where we stopped for a look around and had a Croque monsieur at a local hotel/bar.  

    The main street in Bugue had colourful umbrellas across the road as street decoration.  There was also an old washing place that was still apparent although definitely not used any more.

    We returned the same way as it was lovely and quiet and not along any roads.  We got to the end of the trail above Les Eyzies, the footpath on the bridge was built to be undulating like waves.  It was great over them on the bikes.  I managed to get a picture of it after tomorrow's jaunt.  

You can just see the footpath beyond the grey barrier

    By the time we got back we had clocked up just over 17 miles without battery power so we thought we had earned a beer.  We saw a few other couples, also on bikes, either come in for a beer or pass us in the street. 

   I don’t know where we found the energy but when we got back, I changed the beds, we both had showers and Mike set up the BBQ and made pizza for us.  We are certainly knackered now and won’t be long before we hit the sack.  However, there seems to be a youngster gathering just the other side of the river and they are playing with their vehicle horns (many different tunes) and generally having a good time, but they are noisy.

 Monday 28th

    We went to the market in the morning.  It was only a small market with fruit and veg (Fruites et legumes) and fromage, miel, cassoulet in tins and jars and tablecloths and tea-towels (torchon).  We bought a torchon as they were only 5€ whereas everything else was really expensive, 12€ for a pot of honey!  

    There were only a few stalls so we returned to Daisy and had breakfast there.  We had previously booked tickets for Roque St-Christophe so took Daisy there.  We were glad we did as previously, we were going to cycle it.  The road was very up & down and twisty.  

The Roque itself was very impressive and is the largest neolithic settlement in Europe still in existence.  It has also been used by the Vikings and in mediaeval times and the models of the buildings there are also impressive.  

    We have been here before but around 40 years ago, so we didn’t recognise much of it and questioned whether it was actually this place we went to.  When we came back down, we had lunch at the restaurant there and ordered a baguette each.  They were huge!  Neither of us finished them so took the rest back to have another day (maybe).

    We took a circuitous route back to Les Eyzies going up to Montignac.  We would have stopped to have a look around had we been able to park but all the car parks were small or didn’t allow camping cars to park.  Their loss.

    It was still early by the time we returned and we managed to get the pitch we were originally in.  I took myself off for a walk and went the opposite direction from our bike ride yesterday.  I ended up on a very sandy shore of Le Vezere   There was a group of people swimming and also playing a drum whilst listening to the cascading water from a tributary to the river.  It was a lovely place.  I wanted to take a picture but the people swimming were topless so thought I better not.

    We went for our obligatory beer at the same restaurant.  Mike went in to order them and the bartender/owner recognised him and knew what we wanted.  All the time we have been here, I have been wanting to get into the river but it has either not been the right time or looked a little stagnant but this time I went down to it not far from Daisy (it was a steep bank and after a beer too) but I got down.  There were large stones there which made it relatively easy to get in the water.  Ahhhh bliss!  It was wonderful!