Claire's Highland Fling 6th Leg - Orkney and on to the Kyle of Tongue

Tuesday 17th June

    We had an earlyish start for an early ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, Orkney.  The ferry this time was huge!  It even had cabins on board but for only a short sailing I’m not sure why.  (B&B onboard for early morning sailings)

    I continued my vigil for whales but didn't see any.  We passed the island of Hoy and the rock formation called Old Man of Hoy.  The rocks here have amazing geology.  There was also a long waterfall off the top of the cliffs into the sea.

    We couldn't get onto the site early so we stopped off at Maes Howe, an ancient cairn.  Mike reversed into the only space left in the car park and as we got out of Daisy, a lady came over and congratulated Mike on his reversing.  He does do that well but having cameras everywhere, it also helps.

    We managed to get onto a tour.  We should have booked a time slot so we were very lucky to get this as we only had to wait 15 minutes.  A short coach journey took us up to Maes Howe, a short walk and then a bent-down scramble through the cairns entrance corridor.  That was interesting for our old bones!  The cairn is over 4,000 years old but they don't know what it was used for.  No bodies were ever found and none of the locking stones had been put in place.  The Vikings found it when they invaded and left rune marks in the rock.  Apparently on 21st December, the setting sun shines directly through the corridor and hits the back wall of the cairn so some skilled engineering was used for its construction.  Unfortunately we weren't able to take any photos inside the cairn.

    We continued around the island to the Italian Chapel.

    Italian POW's built it during the war from 2 nissen huts and some plasterboard for their worship.  Some of them were skilled artists too as the inside was amazing.  It was almost as though it was 3D.

    We continued down to see the Churchill Barriers.  These were barriers that were made during the war as commanded by Churchill.  Ships and boats were scuppered at certain points to prevent German U Boats getting past.  

    By this time, we were able to get onto the site so we headed to Kirkwall.  En route, I saw a strange wall around a field and when we got closer noticed it was made out of old rubber tyres.  Certainly a use for them.  We set up and chilled.  It felt like we'd done quite a bit that day.

Wednesday 18th

    We were going to have  rest day but then the sun came out!  It was very windy and we walked around the 'Peedie Sea' (a boating lake)  Peedie in Gaelic means small.  It was so windy there were waves on it!  There was a liner anchored in the bay and hoards of tourists were coming ashore.  There were so many people in the town.  Kirkwall has many independent shops but most of them were gift shops.  I did buy a beautifully hand knitted cardigan from the local craft fayre though - Knitted by Shirley.  I also visited St Magnus Cathedral, which is rather impressive.  Very old funeral stones from 1600 and, I think, older than that.  There was a display of the Kirkwall Sails.  These were fabric depictions of various adventures during St Rognvald's Crusade to the Holy Lands in 1151.

Thursday 19th

    Sunny again!   We took Daisy for a spin around the island.  Once past the stones Ring of Brodga and Skara Brae, we were virtually the only vehicle on the road apart from the odd farmer in a tractor or local out and about.  The land is very open and spacious, probably due to the lack of trees.

    I've bought some embroidery with me - for the ‘restful’ times.  I had finished this piece before but when I washed it some dye had run from the poppies I'd put in place.  I hadn't checked the material for colour fastness before using it.  Doh!  So after unpicking it I then wondered what to do with it.  On asking members on a FaceBook page, they gave me several suggestions and out of them came the idea of embroidering chrysanthemums.  I must say they do look rather impressive but are taking a long time.  Still it will keep me occupied.

    It was also Sophia's 13th birthday today, so we called via video link to sing Happy Birthday to her.  It was good to see familiar faces again.

Friday 20th

    A short drive to the ferry to leave Orkney.  While they were loading the ferry, we noticed that they were taking ages and were late for the departure time.  Then we realised that some vehicles had to reverse on. Mike then offered to do it.

    Once under way, we tried a bit of whale watching but no luck. Once we were docked back on the mainland, we decided to have a look at John o'Groats seeing as we were really close.  

    A quick look then u-turned back out to carry on to our pitch at Scarsferry for the night.  It transpired that we were staying in someone's garden!  Not bad for £12 a night.  You can get charged that just for disposing of your waste on the NC500!  

Mike thought about straightening this photo up but it would have made the lampost looking like it was going to topple over!

    Later on, I decided to take my bike out for a ride and see if I could see a harbour that I'd seen on my walking app.  Philip's Harbour - reopened in 1979 by Jimmy Page of Led Zep fame.

A curious seal's popping his head out - not many visitors down here

Saturday 21st

    We decided to stop at Thurso to get a few provisions before carrying on our journey west.  There's also a hadware shop in town that just about does everything apart from storm proof clothes pegs.

    Back on our journey to Tongueand we were starting to get really buffetted by the wind.  It seems that the suns has now left us and returned to England as they're basking in the 30's!

Mike had been watching this loch for ages trying to catch sight of wildlife but it dries out at low tide and there's hardly any depth of water

    The calm before the storm - torrential rain and thunderstorms kept us awake most of the night.

Sunday 22nd

    We'd booked in here for 2 days so we could catch up on the laundry and it was really hard keeping the clothes on the lines due to the wind.  

Claire's Highland Fling 5th Leg - Ullapool to Thurso

Thursday 12 June

    A cloudy day but no wind or rain - yay!  However, it was muggy which made everything you do exhausting.  Still, not complaining as we were in shirt sleeves!

    We made our way from Siabost to Stornaway to catch the ferry to Ullapool.  We were early for the ferry so I spent some time walking around Stornaway.  There are lots of independent shops here and there is some history.  There is a small memorial plaque for the loss of 201 souls from the HMY Iolaire in 1919, mostly either Royal Navy, Marines or Merchant seamen. There is also a statue remembering the herring girls. There is also a bit of art work around the town too. 

    The ferry this time was huge!.  After we had a bite to eat, we went up on deck - and we saw a whale!  We think it was a Minkie Whale but can't be sure.  That is my Big 6 complete now - red deer, dolphin, seal, golden eagle, otter and now a whale.

    Our site at Ullapool wasn't far from the centre of Ullpool but around the point at Ardmair.  This was the first site Mike booked way back in January so was able to request a pitch looking out over the water.  It was lovely.  Unfortunately, while we were there the Air Ambulance had to land on the beach to attend to someone.  Whilst it was something to talk about for us, probably not so for the poor soul who needed it.

    The wind was quite warm and the sun was still shining so I decided to don my wetsuit and get in the water.  It didn't really feel that cold and I did swim a short way but only as the current was taking me out of my depth, which I didn't really like.  Wow!  The whole experience was so exhilarating!  I want to do it again - but the conditions need to be right!

    The sunset here was beautiful!  We were facing the right way to see it - and this was at 10pm!  Up here, the night time doesn't really get dark so no star gazing.  Apparently, people saw the Arora Borealis in Wiltshire while us up in Scotland didn't see a thing! 

Friday 13th

    We travelled across country from west to east coast.  The journey across was quite unexciting with plenty of land that either had pine trees or heather.  Not many houses either.

    The site we were on for the next few days was at Brora at an old secret radio monitoring station that was used in WW2 and the Cold War.

    Again, we were looking out to sea and when the tide was about half way the cormorants sat on the rocks with their wings spread out drying them.  At times there were quite a few there. 

   The sun was out so we did some laundry.  there was a washing line there so we were able to hang it out to dry. And then the rain clouds came over! So we took it all in - luckily some of it had dried.  Then the sun came out again so we put some out again!  I've never attended to laundry so closely ever before.

    In the evening, we donned some different clothes - I actually wore a dress!  It was so good wearing something different.  

    We walked into Brora had a drink at the pub and went for an Indian at Sid's Spice.  It was absolutely delicious!  Brora has a small harbour which we walked around on our slow amble back after feeling so full.

Saturday 14th

    We strolled into Brora and did some shopping then went for a coffee.  The hot chocolate that I ordered came in a fantastic mug!  I asked where it had come from, the owner didn't know as it was a gift.  During the afternoon, I walked along the beach then doubled back through the cow field back around to the site.  During this walk I saw and heard a bird and made a recording of it.  Later Mike was able to identify it as a Meadow Pipit.  Something I'd never seen before.

Sunday 15th

    More traveling this time from Brora to Thurso, the most northerly town on mainland UK.  Some of this route was along the NC500.  We haven't done much of this well know route so far, wanting to keep to the more untravelled locations. Angus Cows!  We saw some on this trip.  Up until now we've only seen a few on Mull.  I was expecting to see lots but that is not the case.

    The land flattens out between Wick and Thurso.  There is also a single train track.  Apparently there is a train from Inverness to Thurso that goes through Brora.  I can see that train trip would be a good thing to do but on enquiring the train didn't leave Brora until 20:16.  Maybe next time.

    The site at Thurso is again looking out to sea on a cliff but within walking distance of the centre.  Quite a nice walk along the cliff and you can get down to the beach which is sandy and stoney and seems to be a dog walkers paradise. 

Monday 16th

    Mike did some laundry as I went into town to get some pegs.  A windy day so it's good drying weather.  I also went for a walk around the coast path to Thurso Castle.  This is very run down and dilapidated but there were still people living in a few houses connected to it.

    Back at the site after the 5 mile walk and I was knackered.  After a rest we went out for the evening.  We started off by getting a drink at a local hostelry.  When we walked in the men already there, started laughing.  We found out they were laughing because one man thought I was his wife come to get him.  He offered, and bought, our drinks as a apology.       We then went to a restaurant called Bydand.  If offered a set meal with an amuse-bouche (beetroot meringue with cream cheese and pureed carrot on top), starter (I had vegetable risotto and Mike had belly pork) then a palette cleanser (elderflower sorbet - gorgeous) and a main (I had Scottish salmon fried, with spiced chick peas and carrot and Mike had Pulled Beef with rosti potatoes and mashed cauliflower and green beans).  It was all very nice and just the right amount.

    After that, we went back to the pub and the original men were still there. I joned them in a game of killer pool where you get 3 lives plus if you hit a glass placed in the middle of the table you put in £1 (I think the winner gets that).  Mike got a fiver out of his pocket in preparation!  However, I didn't win but neither did I hit the glass.  It was a good night.

Claire's Highland Fling 4th Leg - Outer Hebrides Uist, Harris and Lewis

Saturday 7th June 2025

    We took the ferry from Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris.  I cant say that I'm sorry to see the back of the campsite in Uig.  It was very impersonal and they crammed in the vans to get the absolute premium for all the people catching the ferry in the early morning.  I suppose in a way that's what we did but we stayed 3 days to try and capture the village life and Skye.  Which we did at the pub and the lady the shop who gave me a needle for sewing my knitting together.  It was just the site.  It really is just an over night stop kind of place.

    We had breakfast on the ferry this time as it was a larger ferry.  As we were almost the first van on, we got to the front of the queue! Mike's getting a liking for Lorne sausage especially after having tried it in the cafe in Helensburgh which I quite liked - I never expected to see oatmeal in some of them.

    From the ferry, we saw guilliemots or razorbills and gannets. I was still looking for my illusive whale but not today.

    Harris is very mountainous, presumably granite, and very few trees. In fact, I've read that if you want trees on Harris or Lewis, you have to go to Stornoway. 

    Our first stop was at Seilebost and on the way I saw a sheep with a pink top knot affair on its head. It put me in mind of Shaun the sheep, only pink.

    When we arrived at Seilebost we were astounded at the views of the sands - very pale sands. It was gorgeous. I went barefoot walking in the sand (too cold today for the water). 

The tide was out at this point but I went back later to see what it looked like at full tide. Such a transformation!

Sunday 8th

    We caught the ferry from Leverburgh, S Harris, to Bernaray which is an island but joined to Uist via a causeway. There were many tiny islands that the ferry pilot had to negotiate so we went in a circular fashion across the water. 

    We travelled south to South Uist. There are two routes initially from N. Uist and we took the east route through the many many water inlets and tiny islets crossing many causeways in the process. This route took us over the island of Grimisay, Benbecula and into South Uist. We continued onto the island of Eriskay then back to our site for the night on S. Uist at Kilbride Campsite.

    On the way down, we saw many delapidated croft houses with no roofs.  It was a shame to see so many just kept to ruin but when we stopped at the Kildonan Museum, we understood that the crofting life has changed over the years and now more modern houses are preferred.  They are still placed in a higgledy-piggeldy manner across the land though.  

    En route we also saw the stature of Our Lady of the Isles but not sure why that is there, and passed the birth place of Flora Macdonald who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape.

    Once we had set up, we walked along the coast path to the only pub for for miles around.  It was really quiet at one point, we were the only ones in there!  Just outside there was a standing stone but no information about it.  On the way back, I clambered down some big boulders to reach the beach and had a scour around there. I saw rubber glove fingers sticking out of the sand and on kicking them, I found that they were solid. My heart missed a beat!  Had I found a dead body or severed hand. No, it was simply a rubber glove full of sand.  Thank goodness!

Monday 9th

  The following day, Monday, saw us return to North Uist. It was raining so viewing any scenery was difficult. However, we went up the west side of N. Uist this time. Many more crofts run down or newer but worse kept roads.  It was slightly longer too but we got so see a different aspect of Uist.  It was a bit hard on Daisy though as the drawer that we'd repaired come unstuck but luckily, no damage.

    Mike found a lovely overnight stop for us at Bernaray on the coast line looking over the Sound of Harris.  After a wander along the beach we chilled, watched the water and had an early night. 

Tuesday 10th

    We caught the ferry back to Leverburgh then made our way north through Harris to Lewis.  We stopped at the Callanish Stones Visitor Centre but it still in the process of being built!   Managed to get parked and took a wander up to see them.  They are quite impressive and older than Stonehenge....... and we were able to get in among them although there was a sign asking not to touch them.  This experience was spoilt by one individual who was sitting against the main stone chanting but not in gaelic, it was in Native American!  One chap asked her something and she said she was having a private ceremony and that she was a medicine woman from Canada and that we were spoiling her ceremony.  It was a shame as she was actually spoiling our enjoyment as we couldn't get to where she was and had to listen to the chanting! 

    We travelled a short way then stopped at the Gearrannan BlackHouse Village Museum.  Here there were a number of croft cottages that had been renovated with one being a museum.  

It had an old loom from the 1900's which was still working along with other information about the area and crofting.  

A real peat fire

It was very interesting to find out the houses were built on a slope to ensure any water getting in drained to one end and out. The bed was up the slope so people still went ‘up to bed’.  

    While buying a postcard, I loved the jumper worn by one of the staff and I commented so.  She said that her mother had made it for her and gave me her card. "Selkie Bay Hebridean Knitwear".  I'm going to get in touch.   www.selkiebay.scot

    Moving on, we stopped at a few shops on the way, one being a community shop and one selling hand made items made with Harris Tweed.  I want to get something made with Harris Tweed and couldn't make up mind between a little shoulder bag with the Callanish Stones design or a pair of wrist warmers. I plumped for the wrist warmers as I thought I'd get more use out of them.  I still quite like the bag too though. 

    It was a very blowy but very dry day on reaching our stop for the next few nights so I did a wash load and hung them out to dry and dry they did!  I don't think I've ever seen sheets fly that horizontal before!

Wednesday 11th

    The day started lazily as it was raining outside and we weren't in a hurry to do anything.  In the afternoon, the day started clearing up so we decided to go for a bike ride.  After lunch, Mike got the bikes ready, having checked all the electrical connections on his.  In Uig, he'd been getting an error 25 on its display which supposedly has something to do with the brake sensors which his bike doesn't have!  Things are getting too complicated or is it us just getting old.  It reminds me of when my mum phoned me at home and said 'Why are you speaking to me on my tv remote."  😊 

    On the bikes, we headed for Shawbost beach which was lovely.  So pristine and not one bit of pollution.  The waves were lapping on the sand, the smell of the seaweed and the wind in our ears.  It can't get much better than this.  Back on our bikes, we headed across the bay to visit a Norse Mill & Kiln but it was closed for repair when we got there. Shame so back home to Daisy and chill out.  Cue music.....  "If you're fond of sand dunes and salty air, quaint little vilages here and there........." 

Claire's Highland Fling 3rd Leg - Tobermory to Uig, Isle of Skye

Sunday 1st June

      We travelled to Tobermory to catch the ferry to Kilchoan.  Tobermory is famed for its colourful houses which we just about all we saw.   The ferry crossing was fine and we went up on deck. We arrived at Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula (most westerly point on the British Mainland).  Previously, we'd had problems finding somewhere to stay here but I found a lovely spot at Kentra Bay.  It was situated almost on the beach and it reminded me of Appledore in Devon.  It was really idyllic.We were the only motorhome at the site and we were able to park right at the foreshore overlooking the mud flats. It was idyllic. 

    In the afternoon,  I took myself off for a bike ride in search of the Singing Sands while Mike wanted to explore the bay and maybe get some razor clams.  Such a lovely peaceful ride. I only saw 2 people and 2 dogs.  The track took me through forestry land so many tree stumps and massive log piles.  At the top of this hill or brae, I saw the long sweeping downhill stretch, which I knew I'd have to come back up, so decided to turn back.  I'm kicking myself now of course but at the time I didn't realise how close I was to the Singing Sands.  I still clocked up 10.5 miles though.

     That evening, we sat looking out whilst the tide came in and we saw an otter darting around in the water. We must have been watching until 11.15 and it was still light!  It is such a beautiful spot that you forget time. It was with a heavy heart that we left the following day.  It's magical place and I wouldn't mind coming back.

Monday 2nd June

    We've seen many sheep on the hill sides but here we've seen many black sheep grazing on the grass banks around the mud flats. They have very straggly wool which is falling off their backs in a very random fashion. 
    We travelled up to Fort William today.  On the way there, we passed the Glen Finnan viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter films.  It was mobbed with everyone parking up in the most inappropriate places.  All trying to catch a glimpse of some steam engine chuffing through.

    We were able to get onto the site in the shadow of Ben Nevis early so we're able to get some washing done. The machines were like the ones now seen at petrol stations and were very expensive - £30 for our 2 wash loads but everything was done within the hour.

    We cheered ourselves up by getting on our bikes and cycling, again part way along a designated cycle track, to Fort William.  There isn't a great deal there.  Touristy shops and plenty of tartan for sale.  However we did see a model of a Model T Ford with Henry Alexander who drove it up to the summit of Ben Nevis in 1911.

 

   We were knackered when we got back so restful evening.  That night, however, the fridge started playing up and every now and again would sound an alarm - and there was nothing we could do to stop it!  Until the morning that is when Mike turned it to gas (why didn't we think of that during the night).  The alarm seems to have been sorted by increasing the temp then reducing it again.  Why?  Who knows. Mike thinks that it's a relay on the circuit board but nothing that we can fix now.

Tuesday 3rd 

Chillout day, just sorting things out and shopping.

Wednesday 4th

    We woke up to snow on Ben Nevis!  I thought it was a little cold during the night. 

It was a ffffffreezing last night

        Set off for Kyle of Lochalsh then onto the Isle of Skye over the Skye Bridge.  

    First impressions are not great.  Mountains of course and rain, which hides a lot.  We did see a rock with a model dinosaur standing proud on the top though.  That bought a smile to our faces. 
    We stopped on a site at Uig right next to the ferry terminal.  It is quite a large site and the vans are certainly packed in.  There were 25 vans, 2 tents and 1 caravan on our first night, nearly all of which left the following morning only to be replaced the following day with more.  The site owner must be making a fortune during the summer months.
    We went down to the pub for a meal on our first night. The meal was quite good then we headed into the bar.  There is a Skye Brewery here so we partook of a few pints then I wanted to try a Malt whisky.  The barman (the only Scottish person we spoke to) suggested a Tamdhu which, I must say was rather nice (I had 2).
    Mike challenged me to a game of Pool. We had the best of 3 (Mike won) then a game of darts (I won). Then the barman challenged me to a game of pool (he won). It was a really good evening!

Thursday 5th

    The morning started off with heavy rain so I settled in to some knitting.  Then the sun came out!  So we got out our bikes and cycled to find the Fairy Glen.  It was up, up, up hill. Mike's battery started playing up so I left him and found the glen.  

    There was a carpark then footpaths, which seemed to go on forever.  I took a few photos then walked back.  I didn't find the famous picture that depicts the Fairy Glen but Mike had mentioned that it was a tourist company who encouraged tourists to put stones in (fairy) rings which isn't very natural at all so I'm not too disappointed.  Down hill cycle and back home!

Friday 6th June

    Sunshine! I took myself off for a walk to Uig Woodland walk while Mike did the laundry. It was 1 mile to the start of the woodland walk, then 0.1 to the top to see the beautiful waterfall on the river Rha.  Not far at all but it was a lovely walk and I could smell Ransoms!  I love Ransoms - a lovely garlicky smell.  The ones here are smaller than at home and have a faint smell but still lovely. 
    On the way back - I saw a Golden Eagle!  

It's just above the cloud

This is it, zoomed in, being mobbed by a buzzard?

    That's 5 of the big six - red deer, seal, dolphin, otter - only need a whale now.  I'm listening to a cuckoo in the background as I'm writing this!  There can't be many places where you have a cuckoo and snow in the same month.  It was Mike's habit of shaving his beard off when he heard his first cuckoo of the year and stop shaving when he saw the first frost.  He wouldn't know what to do now!