Thursday 12 June
A cloudy day but no wind or rain - yay! However, it was muggy which made everything you do exhausting. Still, not complaining as we were in shirt sleeves!
We made our way from Siabost to Stornaway to catch the ferry to Ullapool. We were early for the ferry so I spent some time walking around Stornaway. There are lots of independent shops here and there is some history. There is a small memorial plaque for the loss of 201 souls from the HMY Iolaire in 1919, mostly either Royal Navy, Marines or Merchant seamen. There is also a statue remembering the herring girls. There is also a bit of art work around the town too.
The ferry this time was huge!. After we had a bite to eat, we went up on deck - and we saw a whale! We think it was a Minkie Whale but can't be sure. That is my Big 6 complete now - red deer, dolphin, seal, golden eagle, otter and now a whale.
Our site at Ullapool wasn't far from the centre of Ullpool but around the point at Ardmair. This was the first site Mike booked way back in January so was able to request a pitch looking out over the water. It was lovely. Unfortunately, while we were there the Air Ambulance had to land on the beach to attend to someone. Whilst it was something to talk about for us, probably not so for the poor soul who needed it.
The wind was quite warm and the sun was still shining so I decided to don my wetsuit and get in the water. It didn't really feel that cold and I did swim a short way but only as the current was taking me out of my depth, which I didn't really like. Wow! The whole experience was so exhilarating! I want to do it again - but the conditions need to be right!
The sunset here was beautiful! We were facing the right way to see it - and this was at 10pm! Up here, the night time doesn't really get dark so no star gazing. Apparently, people saw the Arora Borealis in Wiltshire while us up in Scotland didn't see a thing!
Friday 13th
We travelled across country from west to east coast. The journey across was quite unexciting with plenty of land that either had pine trees or heather. Not many houses either.
The site we were on for the next few days was at Brora at an old secret radio monitoring station that was used in WW2 and the Cold War.
Again, we were looking out to sea and when the tide was about half way the cormorants sat on the rocks with their wings spread out drying them. At times there were quite a few there.
The sun was out so we did some laundry. there was a washing line there so we were able to hang it out to dry. And then the rain clouds came over! So we took it all in - luckily some of it had dried. Then the sun came out again so we put some out again! I've never attended to laundry so closely ever before.
In the evening, we donned some different clothes - I actually wore a dress! It was so good wearing something different.
We walked into Brora had a drink at the pub and went for an Indian at Sid's Spice. It was absolutely delicious! Brora has a small harbour which we walked around on our slow amble back after feeling so full.
Saturday 14th
We strolled into Brora and did some shopping then went for a coffee. The hot chocolate that I ordered came in a fantastic mug! I asked where it had come from, the owner didn't know as it was a gift. During the afternoon, I walked along the beach then doubled back through the cow field back around to the site. During this walk I saw and heard a bird and made a recording of it. Later Mike was able to identify it as a Meadow Pipit. Something I'd never seen before.
Sunday 15th
More traveling this time from Brora to Thurso, the most northerly town on mainland UK. Some of this route was along the NC500. We haven't done much of this well know route so far, wanting to keep to the more untravelled locations. Angus Cows! We saw some on this trip. Up until now we've only seen a few on Mull. I was expecting to see lots but that is not the case.
The land flattens out between Wick and Thurso. There is also a single train track. Apparently there is a train from Inverness to Thurso that goes through Brora. I can see that train trip would be a good thing to do but on enquiring the train didn't leave Brora until 20:16. Maybe next time.
The site at Thurso is again looking out to sea on a cliff but within walking distance of the centre. Quite a nice walk along the cliff and you can get down to the beach which is sandy and stoney and seems to be a dog walkers paradise.
Monday 16th
Mike did some laundry as I went into town to get some pegs. A windy day so it's good drying weather. I also went for a walk around the coast path to Thurso Castle. This is very run down and dilapidated but there were still people living in a few houses connected to it.
Back at the site after the 5 mile walk and I was knackered. After a rest we went out for the evening. We started off by getting a drink at a local hostelry. When we walked in the men already there, started laughing. We found out they were laughing because one man thought I was his wife come to get him. He offered, and bought, our drinks as a apology. We then went to a restaurant called Bydand. If offered a set meal with an amuse-bouche (beetroot meringue with cream cheese and pureed carrot on top), starter (I had vegetable risotto and Mike had belly pork) then a palette cleanser (elderflower sorbet - gorgeous) and a main (I had Scottish salmon fried, with spiced chick peas and carrot and Mike had Pulled Beef with rosti potatoes and mashed cauliflower and green beans). It was all very nice and just the right amount.
After that, we went back to the pub and the original men were still there. I joned them in a game of killer pool where you get 3 lives plus if you hit a glass placed in the middle of the table you put in £1 (I think the winner gets that). Mike got a fiver out of his pocket in preparation! However, I didn't win but neither did I hit the glass. It was a good night.
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