Saturday 7th June 2025
We took the ferry from Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris. I cant say that I'm sorry to see the back of the campsite in Uig. It was very impersonal and they crammed in the vans to get the absolute premium for all the people catching the ferry in the early morning. I suppose in a way that's what we did but we stayed 3 days to try and capture the village life and Skye. Which we did at the pub and the lady the shop who gave me a needle for sewing my knitting together. It was just the site. It really is just an over night stop kind of place.
We had breakfast on the ferry this time as it was a larger ferry. As we were almost the first van on, we got to the front of the queue! Mike's getting a liking for Lorne sausage especially after having tried it in the cafe in Helensburgh which I quite liked - I never expected to see oatmeal in some of them.
From the ferry, we saw guilliemots or razorbills and gannets. I was still looking for my illusive whale but not today.
Harris is very mountainous, presumably granite, and very few trees. In fact, I've read that if you want trees on Harris or Lewis, you have to go to Stornoway.
Our first stop was at Seilebost and on the way I saw a sheep with a pink top knot affair on its head. It put me in mind of Shaun the sheep, only pink.
When we arrived at Seilebost we were astounded at the views of the sands - very pale sands. It was gorgeous. I went barefoot walking in the sand (too cold today for the water).
The tide was out at this point but I went back later to see what it looked like at full tide. Such a transformation!
Sunday 8th
We caught the ferry from Leverburgh, S Harris, to Bernaray which is an island but joined to Uist via a causeway. There were many tiny islands that the ferry pilot had to negotiate so we went in a circular fashion across the water.
We travelled south to South Uist. There are two routes initially from N. Uist and we took the east route through the many many water inlets and tiny islets crossing many causeways in the process. This route took us over the island of Grimisay, Benbecula and into South Uist. We continued onto the island of Eriskay then back to our site for the night on S. Uist at Kilbride Campsite.
On the way down, we saw many delapidated croft houses with no roofs. It was a shame to see so many just kept to ruin but when we stopped at the Kildonan Museum, we understood that the crofting life has changed over the years and now more modern houses are preferred. They are still placed in a higgledy-piggeldy manner across the land though.
En route we also saw the stature of Our Lady of the Isles but not sure why that is there, and passed the birth place of Flora Macdonald who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape.
Once we had set up, we walked along the coast path to the only pub for for miles around. It was really quiet at one point, we were the only ones in there! Just outside there was a standing stone but no information about it. On the way back, I clambered down some big boulders to reach the beach and had a scour around there. I saw rubber glove fingers sticking out of the sand and on kicking them, I found that they were solid. My heart missed a beat! Had I found a dead body or severed hand. No, it was simply a rubber glove full of sand. Thank goodness!
Monday 9th
The following day, Monday, saw us return to North Uist. It was raining so viewing any scenery was difficult. However, we went up the west side of N. Uist this time. Many more crofts run down or newer but worse kept roads. It was slightly longer too but we got so see a different aspect of Uist. It was a bit hard on Daisy though as the drawer that we'd repaired come unstuck but luckily, no damage.
Mike found a lovely overnight stop for us at Bernaray on the coast line looking over the Sound of Harris. After a wander along the beach we chilled, watched the water and had an early night.
Tuesday 10th
We caught the ferry back to Leverburgh then made our way north through Harris to Lewis. We stopped at the Callanish Stones Visitor Centre but it still in the process of being built! Managed to get parked and took a wander up to see them. They are quite impressive and older than Stonehenge....... and we were able to get in among them although there was a sign asking not to touch them. This experience was spoilt by one individual who was sitting against the main stone chanting but not in gaelic, it was in Native American! One chap asked her something and she said she was having a private ceremony and that she was a medicine woman from Canada and that we were spoiling her ceremony. It was a shame as she was actually spoiling our enjoyment as we couldn't get to where she was and had to listen to the chanting!
We travelled a short way then stopped at the Gearrannan BlackHouse Village Museum. Here there were a number of croft cottages that had been renovated with one being a museum.
It had an old loom from the 1900's which was still working along with other information about the area and crofting.
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| A real peat fire |
While buying a postcard, I loved the jumper worn by one of the staff and I commented so. She said that her mother had made it for her and gave me her card. "Selkie Bay Hebridean Knitwear". I'm going to get in touch. www.selkiebay.scot
Moving on, we stopped at a few shops on the way, one being a community shop and one selling hand made items made with Harris Tweed. I want to get something made with Harris Tweed and couldn't make up mind between a little shoulder bag with the Callanish Stones design or a pair of wrist warmers. I plumped for the wrist warmers as I thought I'd get more use out of them. I still quite like the bag too though.
It was a very blowy but very dry day on reaching our stop for the next few nights so I did a wash load and hung them out to dry and dry they did! I don't think I've ever seen sheets fly that horizontal before!
Wednesday 11th
The day started lazily as it was raining outside and we weren't in a hurry to do anything. In the afternoon, the day started clearing up so we decided to go for a bike ride. After lunch, Mike got the bikes ready, having checked all the electrical connections on his. In Uig, he'd been getting an error 25 on its display which supposedly has something to do with the brake sensors which his bike doesn't have! Things are getting too complicated or is it us just getting old. It reminds me of when my mum phoned me at home and said 'Why are you speaking to me on my tv remote." 😊
On the bikes, we headed for Shawbost beach which was lovely. So pristine and not one bit of pollution. The waves were lapping on the sand, the smell of the seaweed and the wind in our ears. It can't get much better than this. Back on our bikes, we headed across the bay to visit a Norse Mill & Kiln but it was closed for repair when we got there. Shame so back home to Daisy and chill out. Cue music..... "If you're fond of sand dunes and salty air, quaint little vilages here and there........."
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